War & Pieces
The Abandoned Fort Stark
Written by: Wilk
Photographs by: Lassie
Hello, New Hampshire. It’s been a long time. Three years, in fact. A lot has changed. The global pandemic has mostly come to an end. We’ve grown a bit older. The summer has become hotter. Things aren’t what they used to be. This year has been a crazy one for us for a lot of reasons. And that has honestly been reflected in the kind of places we’ve been exploring. Due to some career changes, both Lassie and myself found ourselves having almost the entire summer off. Something we haven’t really ever experienced before as grown adults. With no school to teach during the summer for her, and SAG-AFTRA on strike for me, we found ourselves with quite a bit of free time these last few weeks. So this has been what we have come to call “The Summer of Madness.” There’s been a lot of spontaneity. There’s been a lot of fun. But most of all, there’s been a lot of traveling. Places we’ve never seen before. Places we’ve always wanted to see. And some places that we haven’t been to in a long time. And that’s where The White Mountain State comes in. If you look at our treasure map here on our site, New Hampshire is the one state here in New England that has only one place on it. Well, this summer, we chose to finally change that.
And so, if you please, allow me to introduce to you the latest addition to the Abandoned Wonders family – the abandoned Fort Stark. Located on the far eastern side of New Castle, New Hampshire, this old warhorse has a long history. Named after local colonial war hero General John Stark, the fort has served a small role in each of The United States of America’s great military struggles. But her purpose has always been clear: defend the Portsmouth Navy Yard and the strategically valuable Piscataqua River. Garrisons and guns crewed the fort during the Revolutionary War, War of 1812, American Civil War, Spanish-American War, World War I, and World War II. But strangely enough, despite her decorated line of service, she never saw combat. I suppose we should all be thankful for that, in one way or another. As the tides of war turned cold, the watchful guardian Fort Stark was deactivated in 1948. Her main guns found new homes in more hostile parts of the world and the grounds were turned over to the US Navy. Though they spent some time as a training center for reserve forces, the fort’s fate was more or less sealed. In 1983, the state of New Hampshire took control of the grounds and the once great Fort Stark was no more.
And so in the waning days of summer 2023, we had yet another spontaneous trip. On a Sunday afternoon we randomly got an invite to visit some family up north, and two hours later we were in New Hampshire. Believe it or not, abandoned places are rather scarce up in The White Mountain State. There are plenty of abandoned farm houses and factories lost to the wilderness. But few of these places have a story. And if you know anything about us here at Abandoned Wonders, it’s all about the story for us. We chose this place because it’s honestly been a long time since we covered anything military related. Having seen so many Nike Missile Sites during our early years, military stuff just got boring after a while. We figured now was a good time to revisit the subject. So, with a couple family members tagging along with us, we set out on our trek to the abandoned Fort Stark. On our drive over, we just happened to pass by the legendary “Alcatraz of the East”; aka the abandoned Portsmouth Naval Prison. Haunting in her majestic beauty, we may be coming back this way someday to see her more up close. We’ll see…Anyway, the remains of the fort sit right alongside a moderately trafficked beach and recreational area.
There is no long hike or hunt for this one. Much like many other abandoned coastal artillery sites that have been converted to recreational areas, you just drive up to the parking lot and there’s your target. When the state took control of the grounds, Fort Stark was modified just enough to make it safe for the public. So basically the only things left are those that were too expensive to demolish. At the center of the grounds is the old Harbor Entrance Control Base, installed prior to World War II. It is an austere layered building with a grim white paint job. The main battery sites, Battery Hunter and Battery Lytle, sit on either side of the base. Each is in a varying state of decay and has a pillbox-style lookout post at the top. While most of Fort Stark is fenced off, these fences honestly don’t do much. Almost every single one has a gaping hole in it, making the fort completely accessible. Strangely enough, wherever there is a whole in the fence, one of the fort’s heavy steel doors is often busted open. There are multiple dark passageways leading deep into the underbelly of the old base. Some rooms still have their unique features, such as a brick fireplace, left behind. Other are simply black voids or passageways leading to nowhere.
In all honesty, there is not too much to see here. Unless you’re a military history buff, I honestly wouldn’t recommend a visit to Fort Stark. Though the tunnels are quite interesting and certain areas of the fort are well preserved, this place is sadly a shadow of its former self. Leo Tolstoy once famously said, “the strongest of all warriors are these two: Time and Patience.” And while the cruel hands of time have regrettably run roughshod over the fortress, her patience has paid off. Though she never saw combat, Fort Stark clearly served her purpose with honor and dignity. The grounds may be crumbling, but the people she once protected now get to enjoy her beaches with their families and friends. The concept of war may never change, but the ways in which we fight it continue to evolve. In the days of nuclear arsenals and cyber-warfare, places like Fort Stark have more or less outlived their purpose. Her days of standing guard and keeping a weather eye on the horizon are over. Rest now, fallen soldier. You stood without fear in the face of countless enemies. You defended the gates of New England during all times of war. You followed any and all orders you were given with the utmost loyalty. And for that, we salute you.
Abandoned Wonders 